B2HOL Surfers

Forget about sharks. The real dangers in surfing are: Neck Injuries, Collisions, and Water Hazards. There are things you can do to improve your chances of leaving the water in one piece. One of the biggest is to surf with a buddy, which is one of the greatest advantages of participating in B2HOL Surfers.

Water Hazards In reality, surfing has risks. Any sport that occurs in the ocean will put a human partipant in jeopardy, particularly when waves are concerned. Before you go to a surf break, ask the locals everything they know about that break. Does it have riptides? At Barber's it's critical to never drift west -- or Ewa -- of the last beach house. Otherwise, you are suddenly on the reef and returning will probably require the help of a lifeguard. Pay attention to lifeguard's signs. Personally my rule is this, if the waves are over my head I am clearly in over my head. But I am also six feet tall.

Neck Injuries There are two major ways to avoid neck and head injuries. When you fall off your board, fall shallow. NEVER fall head first. Spread eagle your arms and legs and fall flat on your back. The water you surf in can be as shallow as 3 feet. AND the bottom can be covered in rocks that are only a foot or two below the surface. Again ask locals where underwater rocks are most likely. Break names may not give you a clue. Paradise was named for the garden of nasty wana and their pencil-length spines that flourish just below the surface. If you pearl -- or wipe out because your board's nose stabbed into the water like a knife -- ALWAYS cover your head with your arm. I have the bruises to prove that works.

Collisions Unlike the days of Hawaiian royalty, surf breaks in the modern world are crowded. Catching a wave isn't like waiting in line at an amusement park. They can break anywhere in a line-up, although some areas are more likely than others. Take turns. Yield to the person on the wave. NEVER line up immediately between another surfer and the beach, even if you are body surfing or boogie boarding. If someone may hit you, for goodness sake, turtle. And never assume a rider, even a great rider, can avoid you. (I made this mistake. Ouch.) If in doubt, turtle. It's always better to lose a board than the ability to walk. And if young guys are being really aggressive jerks, sick Peggy Jo on them. She has sons that age and a unique talent for chastising them into obedience.